Hovedøya sits less than 500 metres off the quay. On the way out the
boat passes Kavringen, a skerry with barely room for its own lighthouse. Inside
that lighthouse stands a titanium canister that is not to be opened until the
year 3000.
There is a lot of that out here. Norway’s first airport was built on a grazing
island and worked only in summer; when the fjord froze, civil aviation stopped.
Bleikøya held a sanatorium where children with tubercular glands were sent for
the sea air, and the writer Oskar Braaten was one of them. The grass people
barbecue on at Langøyene covers forty years of Oslo’s household waste.
The Norwegian Mapping Authority has recorded 1,230 named islands,
islets and skerries in this fjord. Very few of them appear in any guidebook.
Here are 125, with what actually happened on them, how to get there, and what
the rules are once you arrive.